Perut ikan – pickled fish stomach.
Perut ikan means fish stomach in the Malay language. It is also the name of the popular Nyonya curry of which the main ingredient is pickled fish stomach. The perut ikan in the image above were given to me by my former neighbour who is a fishmonger at the Rifle Range wet market in Penang. He kept the fish stomachs that he usually discarded and pickled them in a glass jar for me.
The method of preserving the stomach is very simple. The stomach is first cut into strips. This allows for a more thorough preservation and easier storage. The strips are cleaned and drained. Coarse salt is added and mixed well. They are then packed into a glass jar, sealed and kept for several months.
The stomachs from larger fishes are preferred as they are thicker. Thicker stomachs are also chewier. In the olden days larger fishes were served only during festivals. Stomachs from these fishes were pickled as and when they were available. They were salted and kept until there were sufficient quantity for cooking. Nowadays, bottled perut ikan can be bought at selected wet markets. If it is not available, one can get fresh fish stomachs from the wet market and pickle it with little effort.
Good tasting food do not have to be made from expensive ingredients. In fact, many of the main ingredients for popular Malaysian dishes are available abundantly in the garden or backyard of the numerous houses that I grew up in. Some of these plants grew uncultivated and untended. Among them is Piper sarmentosum which is the scientific name for the kaduk plant.
Daun kaduk – wild betel leaf.
Kaduk is also known as wild betel. It is related to the betel plant (Piper betle). The leaves of the betel plant known as sirih in Malay are chewed with sliced areca nuts and lime in South and Southeast Asia. The kaduk leaves have a similar albeit milder pungent aroma as the sirih. Both also look similar in shape and texture except the sirih leaf is firmer to the touch.
The kaduk plant in my garden.
Kaduk is one of the most versatile herb yet it is one of the most unappreciated. It propagates prolifically in a shaded and moist environment, and quickly takes over vacant plots of land. As such, it is considered a nuisance sometimes and cleared away as weeds. It can be found in the urban areas as well as the suburbs and kampungs.
Kaduk plants thriving in slightly shaded and moist environment.
The leaves of the plant are called daun kaduk, daun being the Malay word for leaf. It is the main ingredient for favourite Peranakan dishes such as perut ikan, steamed otak-otak and nasi ulam. The pungent aroma of daun kaduk makes these dishes unique in taste and smell. Eating dishes cooked with daun kaduk is an acquired taste due to its unusual aroma and slightly bitter taste.
Daun kaduk – wild betel leaves.
Research has discovered that daun kaduk contains high amounts of antioxidant called naringenin which could scavenge free-radicals and is anti-inflammatory. It is also traditionally used for minor ailments such as toothache and constipation. I have used daun kaduk to reduce flatulence many times. My favourite recipe for this purpose is to cook the leaves in a soup of omelette stir fried with garlic and dried shrimps.
Daun kaduk – wild betel leaf.
For all its usefulness, it is a surprise that daun kaduk is not given the due respect it deserves in the kitchen and local dishes save for what it has been traditionally used for. As for me, I will take every available opportunity to savour dishes cooked with this amazing leaf known as daun kaduk.